30th December 2021 (cold and windy)

Up early after a broken sleep during the night. Firstly with a group in a tent further down looking for a possum in the trees. Lights on, shouting to each other where it was. Next, don't know how long after, I sat upright in my sleeping bag after hearing someone tampering with the bikes outside my door. 

Zips open, headtorch in hand, searching for whoever it was. No sign, but not long after a branch falls out of the big tree we were pitched under. Lands about two feet from hitting us smack bang on the top of the tent. I once again shine the torch outside, all over the trees and " Hey Presto" here's a young possum in the tree above us, looking right at me. 

Threw a couple of pine cones at him but it made no difference. Shining the torch certainly didn't put him off and he was only too keen to see what the inside of our tent looked like. I switched off the torch and zipped up the tent as I heard him jump down from the tree and shuffle around the tent. He then starts making that possum sound as he wanders to another tree. 

Bit restless after that but woke early and we wandered over to the kitchen for a cuppa, to be followed by corn flakes and banana.                

Back at the tent, we broke camp and cycled away from a very nice family oriented campsite, which is up for sale. Today was going to be tough, but as we started the first climb, the rain and mist from yesterday had cleared and even though it was cold, there was no wind, so a perfect morning for a bike ride.

The hill started almost immediately, and the layers quickly started coming off, but at least it was tarseal to the top of the hill.  Then we got gravel as we undulated along the hilltops before descending down, down, down, all the way back down to the river before starting to climb once again.

Then it was more undulating gravel road, but a pleasant gradient and wonderful scenery.  It was very lush through this area with a beautiful river to guide us through. 

We had another ascent where partway up we met some other bikepackers. This lot were real friendly and wanted to have a good old chat about where we were going, what gear we were using etc. They were a couple about our age from Tauranga and a young girl in about her mid twenties from Wellington out on her own for a five day trip.

Trying to find the smoothest line in the gravel, in the lowest gear and battling a very strong headwind,  oh yes....good times !

Unfortunately one of the few cars that were using this road happened to come by just then so we had to get moving.  Turns out we were just at the beginning of a very tough climb to the highpoint of Danseys Pass of 935m.  We also had to struggle against a strong headwind at this point which stayed with us the rest of the day.

We could see the sea from the top. 

The descent was infinitely more enjoyable but we also started to get cold so had to layer up again. We stopped for a number of photos so that cooled us down as well. 

So much so that when we finally arrived at Danseys Pass Hotel, the ends of our fingers were white from the cold.  It was 12.30pm when we arrived which meant we had been travelling four hours to do thirty two kms. 

The hotel was stunning. Just had new managers appointed and looking urgently for staff, of all kinds, with free accommodation thrown in. New people from Lake District and France and very hospitable. Have run large resorts and this was their second day. 

Enjoyed Nachos for Julia and beautiful beer battered fish and chips, with a pinot  gris and a Guinness. All delicious. Ate in the lounge area which was as if you'd stepped back to the gold mining days, but also very lushly decorated.                                    

Set off about 2pm on the gravel, looking forward to a bit of tar seal for a while. But the gravel went on.. and on... and on. The quality was actually worse than it had been coming over Danseys. 

Reached Kyeburn River Rd and the gravel was even worse, big thick basecourse and a pain in the backside to cycle over.  Not only this but by now we had a full on intense headwind, probably about 50kph.  

By this time we were also getting the occasional big fat raindrops hitting us so we sped along as fast we could push through the wind in case it decided to really rain.

The scenery through Danseys had been amazing, now we were on long straight roads with nothing but barren land either side with mountains on all sides. With the wind howling, it would be a tough life as a farmer down here. We were still getting the odd dickhead screwing it past us at high speed in their utes. Eventually, the last 10kms was knocked off. 

Rolled into Waipiata and found the domain which the info had said was good for tents, only to find out it was for certified motorhomes only.                            . 

By this stage, we weren't going anywhere and decided a lot of people would agree we should be certified anyway.  Asked a campervan full of people our age if it would be okay if we pretended we were part of their gang and to pitch nearby. "Sure" they said and even lent me a hammer for the hard ground and then invited us over for a drink when we were done. 

John, Sharon, Merv and Robyn were from Dunedin, just up for a few days. Once again, great down to earth people. 

Then it was over to the local pub where Julia ordered the venison pie and I the Beef and Danish Blue, both with salad and chips. It has to be one of the best pies I've eaten. 

Finished it off with rhubarb and apple crumble and a decaf coffee. Brilliant little pub for anyone coming this way. Oh... and warm inside with it cooling off drastically outside. Ju called Brody and spoke about his trip down here on Sunday, just to make sure things were going well with his plans. 

Then we hit the hay at 8.30pm after a thoroughly exhausting but stunning day.