19th December 2021 (Hot, sunny and windy) 33km

Awake at 6.46am after a great night's sleep. Julia had been up twice during the night, and although I heard her, I was able to drop back off. Ju said the tent had been soaked in condensation when she was up, but now with a nice breeze blowing, it was dry. 

It was about then when Ju grabbed my underpants.  "Impressive!", she announced (although there's nothing unusual about that) as she felt them thoroughly, after grabbing them off the fence where they'd been drying overnight.  Only having meager supplies of clothes means washing will be a daily ritual.

Took our fruit and coffee over to the kitchen, where shortly after we struck up conversation with Diane, the manager, who has been running the place for nine years. She had come across as pretty stern when we had checked in, but she was very nice.  While we chatted, the hayfever that had started bothering Ju yesterday really started to take hold.  She has had sore itchy eyes and been sneezing most of the day. Fortunately once we're moving it doesn't bother her.               

Had a hill to start the day which Diana had mentioned not many cyclists had been able to pedal up.....challenge accepted!!  Of course the hill was only part of it, the constant headwind was the other.

Headwind in full evidence.....judging from the hair barometer,  about 37 kph.

We stopped a viewing point part way up when a camper pulled up with a couple from Te Awamutu who had been touring for fifteen days. Chatted to them before continuing up the hill, which was no problem, especially after we turned the corner and the headwind became a crosswind and after another corner it became a tailwind!  On one particular stretch of dead straight road, we were flying along at 37kph without pedalling at all.  The odd passing motorist probably assumed we were on ebikes, but did maybe wonder why we were smiling from ear to ear yelling yeeee-haaaa!!

We had tried to contact good friend Dot who was just down the road in Methven and heading to Geraldine to meet up with her husband Dennis who is walking the Te Araroa trail.  However, there was no coverage at our campground last night so hadn't managed to organise a meet up.

Pulled into a lay by for some water and a check on directions when a camper goes by, then slows down, turns around and suddenly we're greeted by a smiling Dot on her way to Geraldine. Talked for fifteen minutes, during which we arranged to have dinner with her and Dennis tomorrow.       

                 

Not far down the road was the small community of Staveley and like an oasis appearing out of the desert, there stood a cafe. Just in time for me, as a small apricot and an equally small nectarine definitely did not match the Full English I crave, when on tour.     

Seated at one of the outside tables were Pam and Don, two avid cycle tourers, who like us have been touring for thirty five years, including three tours across the USA. They are seventy and seventy two respectively and live locally, still touring and looking and feeling great for it.                                              

A group of three guys then turned up with all the gear. They'd been out for a couple of days to Lake Heron, up in the mountains, where the overnight temperature had made them regret taking light weight sleeping gear. After taking Pam and Don's advice, we'd ordered our usual coffees and two cheese scones, which they highly recommended and rightly so.  By now it was after 11am and they were demolished swiftly. With conversation flowing freely, and with the three bikepackers informing us that the coffee machine was broken in Mt Somers cafe, (where we were headed) another coffee, this time with a blueberry muffin was ordered and dispatched. Great coffee and food.

The guys suggested that if we wanted to stay off the main road, we take a gravel road the remaining distance to Mt. Somers.  Seeing as we're calling our blog Gravel cycling the South Island, we thought maybe we should actually get on some gravel and left the smooth tarmac of highway 72 behind.  As we pedaled off, we reflected on one of the best things about cycle touring, the meeting of people and sharing of stories and information. 

The gravel road led us straight into the small community of Mt Somers  where we checked into the campsite, run by a couple who had relocated from Wellington, looking for a lifestyle change. They told us about a swimming hole down the road and in no time we were dipping in cool, but rather dirty coloured water. Met a family there who suggested a place to eat, rather than the local pub, which has had three owners in a row, all of them, as bad as the ones before. Just our luck, the suggested eatery was closed, so the pub it will be... Stand by viewers.... Back at camp, washed some clothes and caught up with the blog. 

By 5pm the weather was still nice, and after chatting with Kathy and Keith, caravan neighbour's from Christchuch, we toddled fifty yards along the road. The menu was limited, but as long as you wanted fish and chips....you were fine. Joined in conversation with three locals and the pub owner and had a nice time.  Food wasn't bad. The landlord had a four month old Sharpei dog, Lela, who was gorgeous. 

By 8pm we were back at camp writing the blog and trying to upload photos on slower than normal wifi. As the sun began to set on another nice day, we organized our sleeping arrangements.